Kobelli Diamond Education: Guide To The Asscher-Cut Diamond

Posted in News   |   By

Liljana Tomova

May 25, 2017 6:45:43 PM

When browsing the jewelry market for your next diamond purchase, no matter if that would be an engagement ring, a necklace or a pair of earrings, you are certainly looking for the best-value-for-money diamond that guarantees to fit your style and of course, your budget. This shopping quest may not be as overwhelming and scary as it seems, if you are already informed about the various types of diamond shapes and what each of them will bring (or not) to your jewel. That is why we are going to introduce you today to another fantastic option of many, the asscher-cut diamond.


Diamond Solitaire Pendant 3/4 Carat Asscher in 14K White Gold

Diamond Solitaire Pendant 3/4 Carat Asscher in 14K White Gold


Pretty similar to gems in emerald shape, the main characteristics of the asscher-cut diamond are: small table, high crown and large, step facets. They say that this particular cut was developed with the influence of the splendid Art Deco era that brought into existence many exquisite designs in jewelry craftsmanship. Therefore, when you take a closer look at the diamond sculpted in asscher cut, you will see clear, concentric squares that come as a result of the pavilion facets’ proper positioning underneath the stone. The asscher cut  displays cropped corners, not rectangular ones, which is the most obvious difference between asscher and emerald diamonds. However, when the assher-cut diamond is mounted in a four-prong setting, the cropped corners become less visible, thus diminishing the emphasis on its octagonal shape.

Usually, the design of the standard asscher cut features 58 facets known for providing the diamond with tremendous luster, brilliance and fire. This also creates the so-called “Hall of Mirrors” effect, which is a one-of-a-kind optical illusion demonstrated exclusively by expertly carved diamonds in asscher cut. But, there has been also developed a modified version of this cut, named “The Royal Asscher Cut”.  It counts 74 facets and it showcases a higher crown. Make sure to get well-informed by your retailer about these two types of asccher cut when making your purchase to know what exactly you are buying.



Diamond Engagement Solitaire Ring 1 Carat (ctw) in 14K White Gold

Diamond Engagement Solitaire Ring 1 Carat (ctw) in 14K White Gold 


The asscher cut was developed 115 years ago (in 1902) by the Asscher Brothers from Holland. Their family business started in 1854 on the Tolstraat 127 in Amsterdam, under the name The Royal Asscher Diamond Company. The jewelry world knows them best for cutting some of the most renowned precious stones on the planet, like the Excelsior and the Cullinan diamond, but first and foremost, they are worldwide recognized for developing the breathtaking asscher cut. It is their signature product that they kept patented until the WWII, thanks to which they realized massive sales on an international level.

The early 00’s are treasured as the golden years of the asscher-cut diamond, when its popularity and sales were in their full blossom. The trend was triggered by world’s female celebrities who started appearing on the big screen with mesmerizing asscher-cut jewelry pieces that have stuck in people’s heads for many, many years after. Hence, the reason why this fancy diamond shape is still among the buzz words on the jewelry market today.



Diamond Engagement Ring 1 1/3 Carat in 14K White Gold

Diamond Engagement Ring 1 1/3 Carat in 14K White Gold


Artisans say that they are happy to work with asscher diamonds, because they are very versatile and can easily work as an addition to various types of jewelry. Since the cut itself displays a geometric look with clean lines, it creates breathtaking pieces when being part of intricate vintage designs.

The diamond in asscher cut is also perfect to be mounted in a halo setting, as a handsome booster of the center stone’s brilliance. For instance, if you pair an asscher-halo engagement ring with an eternity wedding band, you will get a stunningly beautiful bridal set that looks like a dream come true. Engagement and fashion rings are not the only pieces of jewelry that the asscher-cut diamond finds use in. It can be also implemented in the designs of tennis bracelets and stud earrings for a more authentic jewelry choice.

Now, let’s pay a special attention to the color, clarity and depth of the asscher diamond to make you more prepared for your future purchase.



The color grade given by this diamond shape is a slightly subjective matter. Generally, the high standards require the popular, cool colorlessness that classifies the diamond as a one of fine quality, but much to your surprise, there is a great deal of customers who require their asscher diamond to have a warmer color. This “warmth” is usually ranked G-H. Due to the large, open facets, the inherent, body color of the diamond in asscher cut is quite easy to see with the naked eye, especially if the stone weighs more than 1.50 carats.



The selection of the diamond’s clarity grade depends on whether the customer tolerates inclusions or not. For example, there are buyers who are perfectly fine if their asscher-cut jewel displays visible inclusions, while others insist on a flawless, inclusion-free appearance. Generally, the most in-demand clarity grade of an asscher-cut diamond is VS2. The reason for that is because it represents the ideal balance between value (price) and appearance. Other options for clarity grade are Sl1 and SI2, but they are not really recommended for diamonds fashioned in this shape.



The general rule says: “The more shallow the diamond, the larger it will look”. When it comes to the depth percentage of the asscher diamond, it is best to stay in the range between 60% and 68%. You might wonder why the depth feature is so important for a diamond purchase. The answer is the following: depth plays a crucial role in how well light is going to be refracted inside the stone. Therefore, step cuts like the asscher and the emerald cut do not require a built-up depth to keep their brilliance, you should go for as low as possible regarding depth.

Diamond Drop Earrings 1 5/8 Carat (ctw) in 18K White Gold Diamond Drop Earrings 1 5/8 Carat (ctw) in 18K White Gold 

To finish this article, here is an overview of the parameters you are recommended to stick to, in order to ensure a smart and quality purchase.


Table: 60% - 68%

Depth: 60% - 68%

Color: G-H

Clarity: VS2

Polish / Symmetry: Good, Very Good or Excellent

Length/Width Ratio: 1.00 - 1.05

Written by: Liljana Tomova

Kobelli Jewelry

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