When moissanite was introduced to the global jewelry scene, many were skeptic of its performance in antique jewelry. The uncertainty came as result of the common belief that antique jewelry looks best when embellished with colored gems. But, the extraordinariness of moissanite has proven once again that this precious stone is a real rule-breaker in all categories, including this one. Therefore, moissanite and antique are now considered a winning combo and the truth is, we cannot get enough of it. So, anyone who has been interested in buying a ring with an “old-world” design and tremendous sparkle, today has the opportunity to see which are the top 5 settings for moissanite antique rings.

 


No. 1 – BEZEL SETTING

Milgrain Radiant Moissanite Bezel & Diamond Art Deco Ring 3 CTW in 14K White Gold

Milgrain Radiant Moissanite Bezel & Diamond Art Deco Ring


Bezel is one of the oldest settings in jewelry craftsmanship, used ever since the Middle Ages. It is not just its long history that makes it incredibly popular in vintage jewelry designs, but also the security it provides the stone with. By entirely surrounding it with metal, the optimal grade of security is obtained, thus offering 100% care-free wearing experience. Bezel is also known as the “rub over” setting, because of the little metal cup that encircles the edge of the stone, while the metal rim holds it robustly in place.

This type of mounting is especially favorable for soft gemstones with a Mohs hardness of 5-7, such as tanzanite, turquoise, apatite and opal. Although moissanite is known as the second hardest gem in the world right after diamond, its versatility is enhanced even more when mounted in a bezel setting. Hence, the growing popularity of bezel-set moissanite antique rings. They are highly recommended for people with an active lifestyle, which includes a higher risk of hitting or scratching the ring. The only inconvenience associated with bezel setting is expensiveness. In other words, it commands higher prices on the market in comparison with most types of settings.

 


No. 2 – INVISIBLE SETTING

Invisible Set Emerald Diamond and Sapphire Cabochon Double Halo Octagonal Engagement Ring 2 1/3 CTW in 14k White Gold

Invisible-Set Sapphire Cabochon Double Halo Octagonal Engagement Ring



Two centuries ago, the invisible setting was developed in France and introduced as a new way of mounting precious stones in expensive jewelry designs. This type of setting is characterized by grooves that hold the stone by slipping into a metal framework without being noticeable. Hence, the name of the setting itself. Usually, antique moissanite rings that are featuring the princess shape are designed with an invisible setting. Round stones, for example, cannot be “invisibly” mounted .

There are a few major reasons for which this is one of the top 5 settings in antique jewelry. First of all, it can be applied to both center and accent stones. Secondly, it gives the optical illusion of a bigger stone. Last, but not least, men’s jewelry, especially men’s wedding bands embellished with any type of precious stone, hugely rely on this setting’s look. When it comes to quality and performance, there is no denying that the invisible setting is less secure than bezel. Therefore, there is an increased risk of having the stone(s) fall off, which could not be the case if the setting is made with fine materials and great precision. In case the stone falls off, it can be put back in the setting under one condition only - the groove must not be damaged.

 


No. 3 – PAVÉ SETTING

Radiant-cut Moissanite Engagement Ring with Micro-Pave Diamond 2 CTW 14k White Gold

Radiant-Cut Moissanite Engagement Ring with Micro-Pave Diamond


“Pavé”, a word of French origin, is used to refer to a type of setting that holds the stones by putting them close one to another in a kind of “clustered” fashion. The pavé setting is one of the most frequently used settings in engagement rings, including the category of moissanite antique rings too. Jewelry pieces that are featuring the pave mounting are often described as pieces of precious metal paved with precious stones (* pavé – “pavement”). As a matter of fact, this type of setting displays little to no visible base metal at all. Usually, stones of the same type and color are mounted in pavé setting, in order to achieve a unified look that will be attractive to the eye. The pavé setting is mostly applied to accent stones (halo and side), because the structure of the setting itself is not suitable for solitaire center stones. The good thing about pavé is that its metal prongs are very safe and they cannot be easily bent or broken. This means that pavé-set moissanite antique rings are desirable for daily wear as much as they are for special occasions, thanks to the flair of elegance that this type of setting gives to the entire piece. Another important benefit of wearing pavé-set jewelry is that the stones can be easily cleaned and maintained.

 


No. 4 – MILGRAIN SETTING

Antique Milgrain Moissanite Engagement Ring with Diamond 1 CTW in 14k White Gold

Antique Milgrain Moissanite Engagement Ring with Diamond 


The milgrain setting, also known as “millegrain”, is characterized by a continuous row of stones bedecked on a piece of metal. Unlike the prong setting, milgrain fastens the stones by using beads instead of prongs. This mounting style takes us to the origins of the name itself – “millegrain”, a French word that designates “thousands grains”. In antique and vintage-inspired jewelry, the milgrain setting is appreciated as a one that not only stands for aesthetics, but also security. Beyond a shadow of a doubt, the most frequent uses of the milgrain setting are halo stones and stones that are arranged all along the edges of the band. That is why this type of jewelry decoration is often referred to as “milgrain edging”. The interesting thing about milgrain setting is that in addition to moissanite antique rings, recently, it can be frequently seen in futuristic ring designs, meaning that this type of setting can be adapted to different styles and tastes. Milgrain is one of the most demanding settings in jewelry craftsmanship, as it takes a lot of time and passion to knit the stones in an elegant and secure fashion.

 


No. 5 – PRONG SETTING

Moissanite Sapphire and Diamond Halo Art Deco Ring

Moissanite Sapphire & Diamond 6-Prong Halo Art Deco Ring


Prong is, undoubtedly, the most popular type of setting in all jewelry styles, a fact that has been around for centuries. Why? Because prong gives the center stone a position that optimally shows off its 4Cs – cut,  color, clarity and carat size. It is commonly said that prong setting is the best mounting for increasing the center stone’s luster and brilliance. Therefore, moissanite antique rings love being prong-mounted. This type of setting includes claw-like, also called “finger-like” metal extensions, whose primary function is to hold the stone securely in place. There are several types of prong setting:

» Four Prong – mostly used for square and rectangular shapes, such as princess, emerald and asscher.

» Three Prong – mostly used for fancy shapes, such as marquise, pear and heart.

» Six Prong – mostly used for round shapes, such as oval and round brilliant.

» Double-Claw Prong – it can be adapted to any shape; used to enhance the precious stone’s security.

 

These were the top 5 settings used in the making-of moissanite antique rings. If you have any question or maybe an opinion that you want to share with the #KobelliCommunity, do not hesitate to leave us a comment in the box below. We will be more than delighted by your presence on our blog. Thank you for stopping by!

With love.




Content Writer

Written by: Liljana Tomova

Kobelli Jewelry